Vacheron Constantin breaks the world record for most complicated wristwatch

bookofjoe | 331 points

Many moons ago, William Gibson did a piece for Wired about his obsession with mechanical watches[1]. The whole thing is worth a read but this bit is worth quoting:

""" Mechanical watches are so brilliantly unnecessary.

Any Swatch or Casio keeps better time, and high-end contemporary Swiss watches are priced like small cars. But mechanical watches partake of what my friend John Clute calls the Tamagotchi Gesture. They're pointless in a peculiarly needful way; they're comforting precisely because they require tending.

And vintage mechanical watches are among the very finest fossils of the pre-digital age. Each one is a miniature world unto itself, a tiny functioning mechanism, a congeries of minute and mysterious moving parts. Moving parts! And consequently these watches are, in a sense, alive. They have heartbeats. They seem to respond, Tamagotchi-like, to "love," in the form, usually, of the expensive ministrations of specialist technicians. Like ancient steam-tractors or Vincent motorcycles, they can be painstakingly restored from virtually any stage of ruin. """

https://web.archive.org/web/20240930092315/https://www.wired...

staplung | 5 days ago

I happen to work in this industry, and just a word for those that compare this with an Apple Watch or a Casio, this Vacheron-Constantin will likely be around 200 years from now, it will still be a testimony of the refinement and engineering of a fine craft that few can achieve, a highly valued item with specialist technicians marvelling on the talent of its builders, just as is the case today with 200 year old timepieces.

you'll be very lucky if your Casio can last as long. Your mass commoditised Apple watch will likely be worthless.

Personaly, I like the IWC on my wrist as much as I like my Casio G-Shock, both are wonderful in their own way.

The Apple watch on my wife's wrist is a fine computer i guess, but at some point, it will have the same "quaint charm" as the IBM Thinkpad she owned 23 years ago.

Mainan_Tagonist | 6 days ago

If you're interested in the functioning of mechanical watches, they're amazing:

https://ciechanow.ski/mechanical-watch/

Previously on HN in 2022: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=31261533

light_triad | 6 days ago

I became interested in complicated watches several years ago and knew I could never afford one, so I made a website with simulated watch dials. Just for fun and education. It was also a great way for me to learn svg animations. https://www.complication.watch/

offsky | 5 days ago

If only my software were valued by number of complications...

Everything about the high end "movement" scene rubs me the wrong way (I had a friend into it), but most of all, the pompous terminology.

pixelpoet | 6 days ago

I do hope watchmakers start to integrate "computational" (instead of temporal) complications into their watches, like a mechanical turing machine or other tiny mechanical computers or calculators which I believe have never been constructed this small.

Inspiration:

Wooden Turing Machine: https://youtube.com/watch?v=vo8izCKHiF0

Curta Calculator: https://youtube.com/watch?v=ZDn_DDsBWws

Zuse Z1 Computer: https://youtu.be/R5XnuT6ZLKg?t=283

Maybe also analog ones!: https://youtube.com/watch?v=s1i-dnAH9Y4

7373737373 | 6 days ago

The recent Acquired episode on Rolex is a great peak into the world of luxury Swiss watches: https://www.acquired.fm/episodes/rolex

What I love about it all is that whatever arguments are made for or against these sorts of things, I think people are just into it because it’s fun.

rpicard | 6 days ago

What I like about mechanical watches is that, having survived a near-death experience when quartz watches were introduced, they’ve evolved into a completely different kind of product. It’s fascinating that, unlike most other businesses and products, people don’t buy them for their utility, and the less automated their production process, the better. Brands like A. Lange & Söhne even pride themselves on assembling their movements twice.

When inefficiency and craftsmanship are considered features rather than flaws, you have an industry that won’t easily be replaced by AI or robots.

JacobiX | 6 days ago

Time Measurement (6 Total):

    1. Day and night indication for reference city 
    2. Second time zone hours and minutes (on 24-hour display) 
    3. World time indication for 24 cities 
    4. Second time zone day and night indication 
    5. 3Hz tourbillon with silicon balance wheel (with high Q factor) 
    6. Civil time display module coupled to the base movement
Gregorian Perpetual Calendar (8 Total):

    7. Perpetual calendar 
    8. Days of the week 
    9. Date 
    10. Months 
    11. Year indication 
    12. Leap-year indication 
    13. Indication for the number of the week within the year (ISO 8601 calendar) 
    14. Number of the day of the week (ISO 8601 calendar).
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers ‘Solaria Ultra Grand Complication’ Lunar Indication (3 Total):

    15. Astronomical Moon phase and age of the Moon 
    16. Tide level indicator 
    17. Spring and neap tides indication.
Astronomical Indications (14 Total):

    18. Indications of seasons, equinoxes, solstices & astronomical zodiac signs 
    19. Position of the Sun 
    20. Sunrise time (according to the city of reference) 
    21. Sunset time (according to the city of reference) 
    22. Duration of the day (according to the city of reference) 
    23. Equation of time on tropical gear 
    24. Culmination time of the Sun (according to the city of reference) 
    25. Height of the Sun above the horizon (according to the city of reference) 
    26. Declination of the Sun, 3-dimensional Earth showing the latitude of the Sun in the North/South hemisphere 
    27. Sidereal hours 
    28. Sidereal minutes 
    29. Astronomical zodiac signs 
    30. Sky chart (according to the city of reference) 
    31. Temporal tracking of celestial objects.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers ‘Solaria Ultra Grand Complication’ Chiming Complications (5 Total):

    32. Minute repeater 
    33. Westminster carillon chime (4 hammers & 4 gongs) 
    34. Choice of hour-only or full chime 
    35. Crown locking system during the chiming 
    36. Double-stop hammer system to limit rebound and optimize transmission of the hammers' kinetic energy
Chronograph (4 Total):

    37. Chronograph (1 column wheel) 
    38. 60-minute counter 
    39. Split-seconds chronograph (1 column wheel) 
    40. Isolator system for the split-seconds chronograph
Additional Feature:

    41. Power-reserve indication (outer disc at 190°)
gcanyon | 6 days ago

For those of you that don't know a lot about Swiss mechanical movements, this watch isn't just nuts, it's fuckin nuts.

mofunnyman | 6 days ago

I’ve never heard of this company but according to the video below, they’re large enough to have a huge building.

How do these economics work? I’m guessing they’re a maker of very expensive low volume products. But are there that many buyers?

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/video-vacheron-constantin-...

Same with Richard Mille. Never heard of them but they’re rich enough to sponsor the Ferrari F1 team.

atonse | 6 days ago

"most complicated" as if that's something's to be proud of! :)

bradfitz | 6 days ago

I can nowhere near afford them, but I love most everything about Vacheron Constantin except for that godawful, cheap, brash font they use for their logo. The font on this piece is fine, their overall design and language is great, I'm glad a company like VC pushes the technological limits and industry forward, but that Helvetica-lookin font is visual fingernails-on-a-chalkboard.

dole | 6 days ago

do timepiece complications have theoretical limits that might originate from the "7-fold limit" in origami, or huffman's work on folding curves in origami?

I realize watch complications are stacked disc segments and not folds, but intuitively if you are dealing with a material in a fixed space you either run up against limits in the stiffness of parts down to sheets of atoms, or some theoretical folding limit relative to the thickness of the case. a watch that expressed the proof might be worth the indulgence.

motohagiography | 6 days ago

Model name is “The Veblen”

gennarro | 6 days ago

At some point, making mechanical watches more complicated will require going digital. It is possible to make very small gears with semiconductor processes, however, very small gears wear out fast due to stiction.

In order for gears to work they must have sliding contact and that means wear. Mechanisms based on flexures don't have this problem, but this requires building the clock very differently. It might be possible to implement many of these complications using flexure based logic[0].

[0]https://www.nature.com/articles/s41467-019-08678-0

gene-h | 5 days ago

No price given. Needless to say, if you have to ask...

jsheard | 6 days ago

To me, people wearing mechanical watches are like people travelling in steam automobiles or using black-cloth-covered daguerreotype cameras.

SergeAx | 4 hours ago

I love that we've apparently reached the "absurd flex" stage of watchmaking where it's less about telling time and more about seeing just how much ridiculous wizardry you can cram into a tiny mechanical space

TimByte | 6 days ago

41 complications and no GPS? How am I supposed to upload my runs to Strava?

nradov | 6 days ago

Yeah I would never give a cent to some Swiss watch company. The only luxury watches I see actually worth their price tag are those made by independent watchmakers like Masahiro Kikuno.

I watched a documentary[0] back in the day that goes over his process of designing and making a watch and it's nothing short of amazing. There's something about swiss watches being so commoditized (even the most expensive ones) that makes their clientele seem outright stupid in my opinion.

0. In Tune with Time: Watchmaker Masahiro Kikuno

curiousgal | 6 days ago

Impressive. Here I am struggling to design a decent UI for a screen of at least 13 inches. I shudder to think how much harder it would be if the only means of interaction were a scroll wheel.

tmnvix | 6 days ago

Still can’t tell time accurately over a long period. The ultimate irony of these collectible expensive watches. I like them anyway out of respect for the engineering but still.

user3939382 | 6 days ago

At first you think, great, im going to buy a fancy watch and I'll wear a platinum Patek that only a banker will recognize. That's how assholes recognize each other, its all in the watch.

But in the end everyone ends up wearing an Apple watch. Nobody knows how to use an Apple watch. Amazing hardware with the worst software ever developed. But it says that you dont care and at least the watch will tell you the temperature outside.

paulsutter | 6 days ago

Amazing workmanship. And they managed to make the watch look beautiful as well.

hiyer | 6 days ago

Is anyone actually going to use those complications? That's really my question for most high-end watches. I can see a diver using the features on their watch, but how many are actually using a Rolex or an Omega as their regular dive watch?

Chronographs, while cool, isn't exactly a useful why of measuring speed these days, and how often do you really need to do that anyway.

On a mechanical watch having the date might be useful, I know I keep forgetting the exact date, but do I really need a watch to remind me that it's Saturday?

I really love mechanical wristwatches, the mechanics of it is amazing and they are beautiful pieces or engineering and works great as an accessory/jewellery, but I don't understand the need for many of the complications.

mrweasel | 6 days ago

I'm impressed, but with my declining eyesight I don't think I could read most of the dials, even with glasses - I can't even read the date on my Timex. I would love to see a copy of the User's Guide for this watch though.

litoE | 6 days ago

Is there something I don't know about mechanical watch culture/industry that would explain their terrible choice of watch band in those photos?

standardUser | 5 days ago

Incredible. This thing started as metal ore and minerals, and look at what was crafted. Is there even a single phone app that does everything this watch can do?

dogman1050 | 6 days ago

Isn't this the closest thing to a portable antikitera?

rlupi | 6 days ago

Would an Apple iPhone 16 Pro be considered a very expensive wristwatch and would the number of transistors break a record?

iFire | 6 days ago
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| 5 days ago

Most complicated wristwatch, has all the things you never knew you didn't want.

I'll keep my Casio thank you.

jxjnskkzxxhx | 5 days ago

Patek Philippe held the precious record with the Grandmaster Chime: https://www.patek.com/en/company/about-time/the-grandmaster-...

michaelssilver | 6 days ago

I’m always impressed by the Swiss. They manage to charge an arm and leg for regular things that a lot of the world makes nearly as well on purely mystique and vibes. Watches, chocolates, diamonds, banking etc.

dyauspitr | 6 days ago

So cool that Dan Flashes makes wristwatches now

kyledehovitz | 6 days ago

Did anyone else struggle to read this article? It felt very circulatory and… complicated

internetter | 6 days ago

Is there an open source Android app with all these complications?

mrtransient | 5 days ago

No Easter complication?

nateburke | 6 days ago

Where is my wristantikythera ?

euroderf | 5 days ago

I like my watches the same way I like my women. Quiet, and with fewer complications.

Joke! It’s a joke! Aw, downvote away ye bastards.

tomcam | 5 days ago

That strap… way to ruin it

bslalwn | 6 days ago

Well that's certainly an achievement but not water resistant though.

DonDhump | 5 days ago

Sounds complicated

danielktdoranie | 5 days ago

This looks nice.

lofaszvanitt | 6 days ago

Hold my beer. I'm sure i can cram some 2FA, biometric authentication, opt out except for 'legitimate interests' activity tracking, cloud services and AI assistants in there.

PeterStuer | 6 days ago

Chick Heidi gogo chick guddu wishlist flair

sombhadursubba | 6 days ago

Are watches going to be tariffed?

RobertDeNiro | 6 days ago

[flagged]

gafferongames | 6 days ago

A smartwatch is going to be much more complicated than this. Millions and millions if lines of code is not simple.

charcircuit | 6 days ago